Humectant

Valine

Essential branched-chain amino acid (BCAA) — a structural component of keratin and collagen. In cosmetics, it moisturizes as part of NMF, supports the barrier function of the skin, and is used in "amino acid complex" formulas along with leucine and isoleucine.

BCAAEssential amino acidNMF componentBarrier function
✓ Safe
Comedogenic Rating
0/5
Irritation Potential
0/5

What is it?

L-Valine (INCI: Valine) — an essential amino acid that is obtained only from food (meat, dairy products, grains). Molecular weight ~117 Da. Partially soluble in water. In the skin: it is part of NMF, a component of keratin (~5%) and collagen. Functions in cosmetics: hygroscopic moisturizer, component of "amino acid NMF" — together with leucine, isoleucine, serine, glycine, and others. Less "active" in a signaling sense than leucine, but an important structural and moisturizing component.

Moisturizers with amino acid NMF complex, barrier-repairing agents, "total amino acid" formulas for mature skin.

Key Benefits

Moisturizing and supporting the skin's NMF
Valine — a hygroscopic amino acid in the NMF of the stratum corneum. It is part of the "amino acid fraction" of NMF (~40% of total NMF is free amino acids). When applied topically with other amino acids: it recreates the natural moisturizing factor of the skin, reduces TEWL, and improves the feeling of hydration. Most effective in combination with sodium PCA, urea, and hyaluronic acid.
Structural support for keratin and the barrier
Valine — one of the key building blocks of keratin (the main protein of the epidermis). When applied topically, it provides "raw material" for keratin synthesis by keratinocytes → supporting the structural integrity of the stratum corneum. Especially relevant after damage: aggressive cleansing, peels, over-drying. Synergy with leucine and isoleucine — the "BCAA trio" for complete restoration.
Antioxidant potential and stress protection
Free amino acids, including valine, are components of the antioxidant protection of skin cells. Under oxidative stress (UV, pollution): free amino acids act as a "buffer," absorbing part of the oxidative load. Valine in complex amino acid formulas supports overall cellular resistance to stress factors.

Suitable for

Dry skinDehydrated skinDamaged barrier

Main Actions

✓ Hygroscopic moisturizing NMF✓ Structural support for keratin✓ Barrier restoration
Valine in the INCI composition

In the ingredient list, valine appears as 'Valine' or 'L-Valine'. Often included in "amino acid complex" or "hydrolyzed protein" compositions — in hydrolysates, all amino acids are already broken down and ready for absorption by the skin. Separate valine or as part of free amino acids — directly available for NMF. Safe, hypoallergenic, suitable for vegan formulas (synthetic or plant-derived).

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