Emollient

Sorbitan Stearate

Classic W/O emulsifier based on sorbitol and stearic acid — the foundation of rich and nourishing cold cream type creams. One of the most tested emulsifiers with a 70-year cosmetic history.

W/O emulsifiersorbitanclassic creamsspan 60

⚠ Use with Caution

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

1/5

What is it?

Sorbitan Stearate (Span 60) — monostearate of sorbitan: ester of cyclic sorbitol (dehydrated to sorbitan) with stearic acid (C18:0). HLB ~4.7 → lipophilic, suitable for W/O or O/W with co-emulsifiers. A solid waxy material (melts at ~52–55°C). Plant or synthetic origin. Span series (ICI name): Span 20 (laurate, HLB 8.6), Span 40 (palmitate, HLB 6.7), Span 60 (stearate, HLB 4.7), Span 80 (oleate, HLB 4.3), Span 85 (trioleate, HLB 1.8). Corresponding Polysorbate (Tween) — polyethoxylated versions of Span with much higher HLB. Sorbitan esters + Polysorbate = HLB-matching systems for any type of emulsion.

W/O creams and nourishing balms, cold cream and cleansing creams, nourishing night creams for dry skin, emollient ointments and barrier creams.

Key Benefits

✦

W/O emulsification — nourishing "fatty" creams

Sorbitan Stearate with HLB ~4.7 is a classic W/O emulsifier: water is distributed in droplets in an oily medium. W/O emulsions are richer, more occlusive, ideal for very dry and cracked skin. Together with a co-emulsifier like Polysorbate 60 (HLB ~14.9), stable O/W or W/O systems can be formed using the HLB-matching system.

◈

Stable texture and feel of rich cream

The solid nature of Sorbitan Stearate gives creams structure and "body" without excessive amounts of waxy thickeners. At 2–5% in cream formulation: stable emulsion with a characteristic rich, velvety feel — typical for classic nourishing creams. Does not give a sticky feeling, characteristic of some other W/O systems.

✧

Reliability and proven track record — >70 years in cosmetics

Sorbitan esters (Span series) have been used in cosmetics since the 1950s. Safety profile — one of the best studied: numerous clinical and toxicological studies, FDA and EU approvals. Widely used in pharmaceutical ointments and medical cosmetics — an additional marker of reliability.

Suitable for

very dry skinW/O nourishing creamsbarrier care

Main Actions

✓ W/O emulsification✓ structuring creams✓ occlusive component

Span 60 + Tween 60 — classic HLB pair

For O/W emulsion: HLB ~10–14 is needed. Sorbitan Stearate (HLB 4.7) + Polysorbate 60 (HLB 14.9) in a 50/50 ratio = HLB ~9.8 → almost ideal for O/W. Typical concentration in formulations: 2% SS + 2% PS60 = stable O/W emulsion. By changing the ratio — HLB and type of emulsion are adjusted. This system has been used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals for decades.

CategoryEmollients

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