Emollient

Sorbitan Oleate

Liquid W/O emulsifier based on sorbitol and oleic acid — a softer and more fluid version of the Span series. Popular in rich creams and body balms where a plastic W/O structure is needed without waxiness.

W/O emulsifierliquid Span 80sorbitanoleic acid

✕ High Risk

Comedogenic Rating

3/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

Sorbitan Oleate (Span 80) — ester of cyclic sorbitol with oleic acid (C18:1, unsaturated). HLB ~4.3 → more lipophilic than Span 60. Liquid state at room temperature — due to the cis double bond C18:1 (prevents crystallization). Most often used as a W/O or co-emulsifier in O/W systems. Less thermally stable than saturated analogs (oxidation of C18:1). Used in pharmaceuticals (injection adjuvants), food industry, and cosmetics. Span series: Span 80 — the most widely used of all due to its liquid state.

Soft W/O creams and emulsions of the "oil-in-water" type, nourishing balms and ointments, vanishing cream type oils, cleansing balms, and oil-cleanser formulas.

Key Benefits

✦

Liquid W/O emulsifier — ease of use and formulation

Unlike Span 60 (solid, requires heating), Sorbitan Oleate is liquid at room temperature: easy to measure, dose, and incorporate into the formula without heating. At low concentrations (1–3%) effectively stabilizes W/O microemulsions and balms. For small manufacturers and DIY cosmetics — a more practical choice than solid Span esters.

◈

Plastic texture of balms and creams

The liquid nature of Sorbitan Oleate gives creamy and balmy systems plasticity and easy spreading. W/O systems with Span 80 have a less 'waxy' feel compared to Span 60: a creamier, buttery texture. Suitable for cleansing balms and oil-to-milk cleansers: emulsifies upon contact with water (or damp skin), effectively removing makeup.

✧

Compatibility and HLB-matching with Polysorbate 80

Sorbitan Oleate (HLB 4.3) + Polysorbate 80 (HLB 15.0) = the perfect pair for a wide range of HLB through the HLB-matching approach. For O/W (HLB ~10–12): ratio ~60% PS80 + 40% SO. This pair is particularly effective for emulsifying oleic oils (olive, avocado) — better compatibility due to similar chain structure.

Suitable for

all skin typesW/O and balm texturescleansing balms

Main Actions

✓ W/O emulsification✓ plastic texture of balms✓ HLB pair with Polysorbate 80

Sorbitan Oleate vs Sorbitan Stearate

Span 80 (Oleate, C18:1): liquid, more lipophilic (HLB 4.3), better for liquid and plastic systems. Span 60 (Stearate, C18:0): solid, HLB 4.7, more structure and firmness in creams. Span 85 (Trioleate, HLB 1.8): most lipophilic, for very fatty W/O systems. The choice depends on the desired texture: liquid balm → Span 80, structured cream → Span 60.

CategoryEmollients

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