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Maltodextrin

Polysaccharide from corn or wheat that performs a unique function in cosmetics — microencapsulation of active ingredients. Protects unstable actives (vitamin C, retinol, peptides) from degradation and provides controlled release. Also a texturizer and soft film-former.

MicroencapsulationControlled releaseTexturizerPolysaccharide
✓ Safe
Comedogenic Rating
0/5
Irritation Potential
0/5

What is it?

Maltodextrin — a mixture of oligosaccharides and polysaccharides obtained by acid or enzymatic hydrolysis of starch. Characterized by the degree of dextrose equivalent (DE): lower DE = longer chains = more polymeric nature. In cosmetics: powdery or liquid, water-soluble. Main functions: carrier for actives (Cyclodextrin-like encapsulation), texturizer for powder and liquid products, soft film-former, emulsifier stabilizer. INCI: Maltodextrin.

Wide range: encapsulated serums, powder masks, stabilization of unstable actives, silk-feel powders and BB creams.

Key Benefits

Microencapsulation of unstable actives
Maltodextrin forms a matrix around oxidation-sensitive molecules (vitamin C, retinol, peptides, essential oils) — protects from contact with air, water, and other formula components. Upon application to the skin, the capsule breaks open under pressure (friction-release) or in the presence of skin enzymes, releasing the active. This method is actively used by L'Oréal, Shiseido, and K-beauty brands.
Silky powder texture
Dry-form maltodextrin — fine powder with a silky feel on the skin. Used in BB creams, primers, and powders as a silk-alternative instead of talc. Mattifies the skin and reduces shine by absorbing excess oil. A natural alternative to synthetic powders in "clean beauty" products.
Emulsion stabilization and viscosity control
In liquid formulas, maltodextrin acts as a stabilizer: binds water, increases viscosity, and prevents separation. Upon application, it leaves a light film that improves spreadability. Useful in products with unstable active ingredients — helps maintain even distribution throughout the shelf life.

Suitable for

For all skin typesFor oily skin (mattifying effect)For products with unstable actives

Main Actions

✓ Microencapsulation of actives✓ Mattifying/silky texture✓ Formula stabilization
Maltodextrin vs Cyclodextrin

Maltodextrin — linear glucose chains, surface encapsulation and texturizing. Cyclodextrin — cyclic structure with a cavity for inclusion of hydrophobic molecules (true encapsulation). For stabilization of retinol and essential oils: cyclodextrin is more effective (true inclusion complex). For overall stabilization and texture: maltodextrin is simpler and cheaper. Both are found in premium formulas, often together.

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