Brightening

Kojic Acid

Natural melanin inhibitor from mushroom fermentation — kojic acid blocks tyrosinase and effectively lightens pigmentation spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation without aggressive effects on the skin.

pigmentationlighteningmelasmatyrosinase

⚠ Use with Caution

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

1/5

What is it?

Kojic acid (5-hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-4-pyranone) — a natural organic acid formed as a byproduct during the fermentation of Aspergillus oryzae (koji) in the production of sake, soy sauce, and rice wine. Mechanism of action: chelates copper in the catalytic center of tyrosinase, inhibiting the conversion of tyrosine → DOPA → melanin. Additionally: antioxidant activity and mild anti-inflammatory effect. Standard concentration in OTC products: 1–4%. Unstable when exposed to light and air — often stabilized in the form of kojic acid dipalmitate.

Serums and creams with 1–4% kojic acid for lightening pigmentation spots and melasma. Works synergistically with vitamin C, niacinamide, arbutin, and AHA. Apply in the evening or during the day with SPF. Avoid on irritated skin — may cause contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals.

Key Benefits

✦

Inhibition of tyrosinase and reduction of melanin

Kojic acid chelates copper ions necessary for the activity of tyrosinase — the key enzyme in melanin synthesis. Clinical studies: 1% kojic acid is comparable in effectiveness to 4% hydroquinone in treating melasma in 12-week RCTs, but with a lower risk of side effects. The combination of kojic acid + glycolic acid in clinical studies outperforms monotherapy.

◈

Lightening post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) — a common complication of acne, especially in darker skin types (Fitzpatrick III–VI). Kojic acid effectively reduces existing spots and prevents the formation of new ones when combined with anti-inflammatory components. Mechanism — reduction of active tyrosinase in melanocytes, where excessive melanin production occurs after inflammation.

Suitable for

skin with pigmentationskin with melasmanormal and combination skin

Main Actions

✓ inhibition of tyrosinase✓ lightening pigmentation spots

Kojic acid dipalmitate — stable form

Pure kojic acid is unstable — darkens in air and under light. Kojic acid dipalmitate — lipophilic ester, much more stable, penetrates the skin better through the lipid barrier, and is released more slowly. This form is more commonly found in modern products. Effectiveness is comparable to the original with better formula stability.

CategoryBrightening

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