Emollient

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Stabilized version of lecithin — a phospholipid emulsifier with unique barrier properties. Perfectly mimics the natural lipids of the skin, restoring the intercellular barrier of the stratum corneum. The basis of premium barrier and anti-aging creams.

PhospholipidBarrier emulsifierLecithinskin-identical
✓ Safe
Comedogenic Rating
0/5
Irritation Potential
0/5

What is it?

Hydrogenated Lecithin — a mixture of phospholipids (mainly phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine) with hydrogenated (saturated) fatty acids. Obtained by hydrogenation of plant lecithin (soy, sunflower). Hydrogenation → saturated chains → higher stability to oxidation compared to regular lecithin. Forms liposomes and liquid crystalline structures in an aqueous environment. Chemically identical to the intercellular lipids of the skin (skin-identical). HLB ~10–12. Lyotropic liquid crystal upon contact with water.

Premium barrier creams and serums, anti-aging products for mature skin, liposome-based products with active ingredients, lipid-containing products for skin restoration.

Key Benefits

Restoration of the skin barrier — skin-identical lipids
Hydrogenated Lecithin — phosphatidylcholine with a structure identical to the lipids of the stratum corneum. Upon application, it integrates into intercellular lipid lamellae, filling the "gaps" in the damaged barrier. Clinical studies show: products with hydrog. lecithin reduce TEWL by 15–30% and accelerate skin recovery after aggressive treatments (retinoids, acids, laser).
Liposome formation — improved delivery of actives
Phospholipids can self-organize into liposomes — bilayer vesicles that encapsulate actives and deliver them to deeper layers of the skin. Hydrogenated Lecithin is the basis of liposomal systems in premium cosmetics (liposome encapsulation). Actives (retinol, vitamin C, peptides) in liposomes: protected from degradation + gradually released in the skin. This enhances efficacy and reduces irritation.
Gentle emulsifying action and conditioning
Hydrogenated Lecithin — a natural emulsifier: forms stable O/W and W/O emulsions. These emulsions feel 'living', more natural compared to synthetic emulsifiers. Conditioning action: phospholipids adsorb to the skin surface, leaving a soft, silky feeling. For mature skin — especially valuable action: saturated phospholipids replenish age-related loss of PC in cell membranes.

Suitable for

Dry and mature skinSensitive and damaged skinBarrier restoration

Main Actions

✓ Barrier restoration (skin-identical)✓ Liposome formation✓ Gentle phospholipid hydration
Hydrogenated vs regular Lecithin

Lecithin (non-hydrogenated): unsaturated chains → prone to oxidation → may yellow and rancid in the formula. Hydrogenated Lecithin: saturated chains → stable, does not oxidize, does not rancid. Functionally similar, but hydrog. lecithin is more reliable in formulas. For liposome delivery: both are effective. For barrier restoration: both are good. For formula stability and shelf life — hydrog. lecithin is preferable.

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