Emollient

Hydrogenated Castor Oil

The solid form of hydrogenated castor oil is one of the most beneficial natural waxes in cosmetics. It structures lipsticks, balms, and solid sticks without giving a feeling of roughness or pulling. Plant-based vegetarian origin.

Natural waxStructuring agentCastor oilLipsticks and balms

⚠ Use with Caution

Comedogenic Rating

1/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

Hydrogenated Castor Oil (castor wax) — castor oil (Ricinus communis seed oil), hydrogenated to a solid state. Main component: triricinolein + hydrogenation → solid tri-12-hydroxystearate. Molecular weight ~870 Da. Melting point: 85–88°C — significantly higher than most plant waxes. Very hard at room temperature, but dissolves well in oils when heated. Excellent oxidation resistance. 100% plant origin (Euphorbiaceae). Unique property: as a wax with hydroxyl groups — an excellent solvent for pigments in lipsticks (castor oil/wax compatibility with pigments).

Lipsticks and gloss sticks, solid deodorants and antiperspirant sticks, solid body and hair balms, cushion and BB-cushion formats.

Key Benefits

✦

High melting point — stable solid forms

A melting point of ~86°C makes Hydrogenated Castor Oil an ideal structuring agent for products that require stability at elevated temperatures: lipsticks do not melt when stored in summer heat, solid deodorants do not deform. In comparison: beeswax (melting point ~63°C), carnauba (melting point ~85°C) — HCO provides similar stability but with a creamier texture.

◈

Creamy plasticity — soft stick type

Despite the high melting point, Hydrogenated Castor Oil gives products a plastic, creamy structure upon application. The lipstick core is solid, but when applied to the lips, it "melts" pleasantly without pulling the skin. Hydroxyl groups (residue of ricinoleic acid) ensure interaction with lip cells and pigments → better color payoff and makeup longevity.

✧

Compatibility with pigments — for rich colors

A unique property of castor wax: hydroxyl groups (-OH) interact with the polar surfaces of pigments (iron oxides, TiO2, organic pigments), promoting even distribution and "moistening" of pigment particles. This gives lipsticks and eyeshadows a rich, even color without color unevenness. This is why HCO has been a standard in color cosmetic formulations since the early 20th century.

Suitable for

Lip productsSolid sticks and deodorantsColor cosmetics

Main Actions

✓ Structuring lipsticks and sticks✓ High thermal stability✓ Better pigment payoff

HCO vs Carnauba vs Beeswax in lipsticks

Classic lipstick formulation: carnauba (hard, shine) + beeswax (structure) + HCO (creaminess, pigment compatibility) + castor oil (gloss). HCO replaces beeswax in vegan formulations: similar creamy plasticity, plant origin. Carnauba — the hardest wax, needed in small amounts. HCO — the main structural wax in vegan lipsticks.

CategoryEmollients

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