Emollient

Diisostearyl Malate

The ester of malic acid and two molecules of isostearyl alcohol is a unique viscous oil for lip glosses. It provides a characteristic "plush" thick texture to lip gloss without silicones and a sticky feeling.

lip gloss baseplush texturemalate esternon-occlusive

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

Diisostearyl Malate — diester of malic acid (HOOC-CH(OH)-COOH) with two molecules of isostearyl alcohol (C18, branched). Molecular weight ~625 Da. State: viscous clear liquid (viscosity ~1000–2000 mPa·s at 25°C). Origin of malic acid — natural (fermentation). Isostearyl alcohol — synthetic or from plant sources. Chemically stable ester bond. Does not oxidize, does not hydrolyze at pH 4–7. Compliance: EU/FDA approved, often meets clean beauty standards.

Lip gloss and plumping gloss, cream lipsticks and lacquers, lip glosses with a plush texture, silky balms, and oil-based products.

Key Benefits

✦

The perfect base for lip gloss — density without a sticky feel on the lips

Diisostearyl Malate — one of the few ingredients that gives lip gloss the right viscosity: thick enough for gloss to stay on the lips, but without a sticky or uncomfortable feeling. Compared to regular silicone bases (dimethicone): DIM provides a more plush, "juicy lips" effect. Therefore, it has become the standard in premium lip gloss formulas over the last 10 years.

◈

Plush "velvet" texture and shine

The unique molecular structure of DIM (malate ester) provides a characteristic "velvet" feel upon application — it spreads softly and evenly without a pulling sensation. On the lips: gloss and light transparency — not a deep shine of silicones, but a soft natural glow. Perfect for glass glosses (glass lips) and "your lips but better" products.

✧

Conditioning and softness of lips

Due to its ester structure and isostearyl component, DIM is an effective emollient for the delicate skin of the lips. It does not penetrate deeply but retains moisture and softens. Suitable for formulations with hyaluronic acid or peptides for lips — does not interfere with their action, unlike heavy waxy bases. Well tolerated by sensitive skin.

Suitable for

lip productsglosses and lacquered lipstickssensitive lips

Main Actions

✓ viscous base for lip gloss✓ plush texture without stickiness✓ lip conditioning

DIM in gloss vs silicones

Traditional lip gloss: polybutene (very viscous, sticky) or hydrogenated polyisobutene (less sticky). DIM — a modern replacement: less sticky than polybutene, less "silicon-feel" than dimethicone. For vegan/clean beauty: DIM is better than lanolin (animal-derived). Often combined with castor oil (a classic) and vitamin E. "Glass lip gloss" effect: DIM + castor oil + shimmer.

CategoryEmollients

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