Other

Cyclodextrin

Cyclic oligosaccharide with a unique molecular "cavernosity" — a hydrophobic cavity inside and a hydrophilic surface outside. It includes unstable molecules (retinol, essential oils, vitamin C) in its cavity and protects them from degradation. The technology of true molecular encapsulation.

Molecular encapsulationStabilization of retinolControlled releaseβ-CD

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

Cyclodextrins are obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis of starch. Structure: a toroidal molecule (doughnut) with a hydrophilic outer surface (OH groups) and a hydrophobic inner cavity. β-Cyclodextrin (β-CD) — the most common (7 glucose units, cavity diameter ~6.5 Å). It includes hydrophobic molecules: retinol, vitamin E, essential oils, benzoyl peroxide, UV filters. INCI: Cyclodextrin. HP-β-CD (hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin) — a more soluble derivative, a standard in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

Stabilization of unstable actives (retinol, Vit C, essential oils), controlled release, reduction of irritation from aggressive actives (retinol, BHA), prevention of unpleasant odors.

Key Benefits

✦

Stabilization of retinol and vitamin A through inclusion complex

Retinol (vitamin A) quickly oxidizes and degrades upon contact with air, light, and heat. β-CD/HP-β-CD includes the retinol molecule in its hydrophobic cavity → protection from oxidation. Effect: retinol stability increases by 5–10 times. Formulas with retinol: CD complex maintain effectiveness throughout the shelf life without dark glass and special conditions.

◈

Reduction of irritation from retinol and AHA

Slow release of the active from the CD complex upon contact with skin lipids and water → lower peak concentration on the surface → reduced irritation, redness, and peeling. Retinol-CD complex — the standard for "retinol for sensitive skin" in premium formulas (Olay, Neutrogena). Similarly for acids and peroxides.

✧

Controlled release and fragrance retention

Due to gradual release from the CD complex under changing conditions (pH, temperature, lipid competition), the active is released "dosed" — the effect of prolonged-release. For essential oils: CD complex retains fragrance in powdered products and during heating. The fragrance effect is long-lasting — the oil is released gradually, rather than instantly evaporating.

Suitable for

Sensitive skin (retinol-CD)All skin typesProducts with unstable actives

Main Actions

✓ Molecular encapsulation (inclusion complex)✓ Stabilization of retinol✓ Reduction of irritation

α, β, γ-Cyclodextrin — what’s the difference?

α-CD (6 glucose, small cavity ~5 Å) — for small molecules, caffeine, phenol. β-CD (7 glucose, ~6.5 Å) — retinol, essential oils, vitamin E. γ-CD (8 glucose, ~8.3 Å) — larger molecules, fatty acids, some peptides. HP-β-CD (hydroxypropyl-β-CD) — modified β-CD, better soluble, safer. In cosmetics, HP-β-CD (retinol formulas) and β-CD (fragrances, oil protection) are most commonly used.

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