Barrier

Ceramide AP

Natural ceramide with alpha-hydroxy fatty acid — Ceramide 6II in the old nomenclature. Uniquely combines barrier restoration with a mild keratolytic effect, promoting cell renewal. It is part of the "golden trio" of ceramides in CeraVe and La Roche-Posay products.

ceramides APCeramide 6IIalpha-hydroxy ceramideskin renewal

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

Ceramide AP — ceramide class AP: Alpha-hydroxy fatty acid (AH-FA) + Phytosphingosine. Key feature: the alpha-hydroxyl group in the fatty acid chain (2-hydroxy fatty acid) distinguishes it from Ceramide NP (non-hydroxy). This hydroxyl residue at position 2: 1) increases hydrogen bonds between lipid lamellae → denser packing; 2) can release free alpha-hydroxy fatty acid upon degradation → mild keratolytic action. Lipid-soluble. Molecular weight ~650–700 Da. Obtained synthetically (vegan possible).

Ceramide-complex products (together with NP and EOP), barrier creams for atopy and psoriasis, renewing products for dull thickened skin, anti-aging products for mature skin.

Key Benefits

✦

Dense lipid packing — Superior barrier function

The alpha-hydroxyl group of Ceramide AP forms additional hydrogen bonds between neighboring lipid molecules in intercellular lamellae. This increases the density of lipid packing → a more effective barrier against TEWL. Studies of the stratum corneum structure: AP-type ceramides (with alpha-hydroxy FA) form more ordered crystalline structures compared to non-hydroxy analogs (NP). Together NP + AP = full spectrum of lipid packing.

◈

Promoting cell turnover — gentle renewal

Upon enzymatic degradation of Ceramide AP in the stratum corneum: alpha-hydroxy fatty acid is released → mild keratolytic activity, promoting desquamation. This effect is much gentler than direct application of AHA, but with regular use of ceramide creams: the skin looks fresher, smoother. Especially noticeable on thickened skin in psoriasis and ichthyosis.

✧

Essential component of a complete ceramide barrier

Ceramide AP is one of three key ceramides that together recreate the natural lipid profile of the stratum corneum. Combination: Ceramide NP (~20%) + Ceramide AP (~15%) + Ceramide EOP (~10%) + cholesterol + fatty acids = complete barrier reconstruction. The absence of Ceramide AP in ceramide formulas results in incomplete replication of the natural barrier. That is why leading medical brands include all three types.

Suitable for

atopic and scaly skindull thickened skinmature skin

Main Actions

✓ dense lipid packing of the barrier✓ gentle cell renewal✓ part of the complete ceramide complex

Ceramide AP = Ceramide 6II — why different names

Until 2010, INCI used a numerical nomenclature for ceramides. Then switched to alphabetical: the first letter = type of fatty acid (N=non-hydroxy, A=alpha-hydroxy, E=ester-linked), the second = type of base (P=phytosphingosine, S=sphingosine, H=6-hydroxy sphingosine, DS=dihydrosphingosine). AP = Alpha-hydroxy + Phytosphingosine = Ceramide 6II. Both names appear on packaging — they describe one molecule.

CategoryBarrier Repair

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