Brightening

Azelaic Acid

Dermatological multitask — azelaic acid simultaneously fights acne, rosacea, pigmentation, and inflammation. The only agent approved by the FDA and EMA for the treatment of rosacea, with an excellent safety profile for pregnant women.

AcneRosaceaPigmentationBHA alternative

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

1/5

What is it?

Azelaic acid (nonanedioic acid, C9) — a saturated dicarboxylic acid that is naturally produced by Pityrosporum ovale (yeast on the skin) and found in grains (wheat, barley). The mechanisms of action are multiple: 1) normalization of follicular keratinization, 2) antibacterial action against C. acnes and S. epidermidis, 3) inhibition of tyrosinase. The FDA/EMA has approved prescription forms of 15–20% (Finacea, Azelex) for rosacea. OTC forms of 5–10% are widely available.

Prescription forms of 15–20% — for rosacea and papulopustular forms of acne. OTC 5–10% — for inflammatory pigmentation and mild acne. Suitable for pregnant women. Effective in monotherapy or in combination with antibiotics/BHA.

Key Benefits

✦

Triple action against acne: keratolysis + antibacterial + sebum regulation

Normalizes follicular keratinization (prevents comedone formation), suppresses the growth of C. acnes (without resistance), and reduces keratin synthesis in abnormally keratinizing keratinocytes. Broader action profile than most acne monotherapies.

◈

Brightening of pigmentation spots and even tone

Inhibits tyrosinase and peroxide oxidation of melanosomes. Effective against post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) — the most common complication of acne in darker skin types. Clinical studies: 20% AA — effect comparable to 4% hydroquinone with a better safety profile.

✧

Treatment of rosacea (rosacea) — FDA approved

The FDA approved 15% Finacea gel for papulopustular rosacea. Reduces activation of TRPV1 and LL-37 (cationic peptide associated with rosacea). Decrease in redness, papules, and pustules after a 12-week course. Effective for both subtypes of rosacea (erythematotelangiectatic and papulopustular).

Suitable for

Acne-prone skinSkin with rosaceaSensitive skinDuring pregnancy

Main Actions

✓ Acne treatment✓ Brightening of pigmentation✓ Treatment of rosacea

Azelaic acid during pregnancy

Unlike retinol (contraindicated) and BHA (with caution), azelaic acid is considered one of the few active ingredients allowed during pregnancy. Category B by the FDA (no proven risk in animal studies). Consultation with a doctor is mandatory, but most dermatologists consider it a safe option.

CategoryBrightening

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