Emollient

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

The most oil-soluble and stable ester of vitamin C. It does not oxidize in the air, is compatible with retinol and most actives, and penetrates through the skin barrier. Ideal for brightening and anti-aging without yellowing and instability.

oil-soluble Vit Cstableretinol-compatiblebrightening

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate — an ester in which all four hydroxyl groups of ascorbic acid are protected by isopalmitoyl groups. INCI: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate. Trade names: VC-IP (Nikko Chemicals), Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (a close analogue). Oil-soluble, does not oxidize in the air (yellowing/browning — a sign of instability of pure Vit C is absent). Converts to L-ascorbic acid after penetrating the skin. Effective concentration: 1–3%.

Oil serums, retinol formulas, anti-aging creams, brightening agents — everywhere pure ascorbic acid is unstable or incompatible with the formula's pH.

Key Benefits

✦

Exceptional stability — does not yellow, does not oxidize

Pure L-ascorbic acid oxidizes within weeks, yellows, and loses activity. ATIP, due to the protection of all four OH groups, is completely stable in the air and in the presence of metals. The product does not change color and retains effectiveness throughout its shelf life. Does not require dark glass and special storage.

◈

Compatibility with retinol and vitamin A

Pure ascorbic acid (pH < 3.5) is incompatible with retinol (optimal pH 5–6). ATIP is oil-soluble and pH-independent — works at any pH, does not compete with retinol, and does not destabilize the formula. Combination of fat-soluble vitamin C + retinol = the most powerful anti-aging duo without compromising stability.

✧

Brightening, antioxidant protection, and collagen stimulation

After conversion to L-ascorbic acid in cells, ATIP provides all the actions of vitamin C: inhibition of tyrosinase (brightening), neutralization of free radicals (antioxidant), stimulation of collagen synthesis (cofactor for prolyl and lysyl hydroxylase). Depth of penetration is higher than that of water-soluble forms due to lipophilicity.

Suitable for

for all skin typesfor pigmented skinfor mature skinfor those using retinol

Main Actions

✓ brightening (inhibition of tyrosinase)✓ antioxidant protection✓ collagen stimulation

Forms of vitamin C: stability comparison

L-ascorbic acid — the most active but unstable (pH < 3.5, yellows). Ascorbyl glucoside — stable, water-soluble, slow conversion. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate — stable, water-soluble, good for acne. 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid — stable, amphiphilic. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate — the most stable, oil-soluble, retinol-compatible. The choice of form depends on the formula and goals.

CategoryEmollients

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