Thickener

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

A synthetic polymer thickener of a new generation — thickens aqueous phases without a sticky or film-like feel. Provides gels and serums with a silky light texture. The standard for premium moisturizing gels and light fluids in K-beauty and pharmacy cosmetics.

Polymer thickenerGel textureWithout stickinessAqueous phase

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer — a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and vinylpyrrolidone (VP). Trade name: Aristoflex AVC (Clariant). Anionic polymer. Self-emulsifying: can form stable emulsions without traditional emulsifiers. Effective over a wide pH range (4–8). Well compatible with electrolytes (unlike Carbomer). Concentration in formulations: 0.5–2%. Molecular weight: high (~several MDa). Clear in aqueous gels. Synthetic, but widely accepted in clean beauty.

Light moisturizing gels and hydrogels, gel-textured serums, SPF fluids without greasiness, toner-essences with increased viscosity.

Key Benefits

✦

Silky gel texture without stickiness

Aristoflex AVC gives formulations a unique gel feel: upon application — flowing and slippery, on the skin — absorbs quickly and leaves no sticky residue. Unlike Carbomer (can give stickiness and "gel balls" upon application) and hydroxyethylcellulose (slippery feel) — AVC provides a dry gel finish. This is why it has become the standard for K-beauty toner types like gel cream and essence.

◈

Self-emulsifying properties — formulations without traditional emulsifiers

A unique property of AVC: can stabilize O/W emulsions without separate emulsifiers. The anionic groups of the polymer act as stabilizers for oil droplets in water. This allows for the development of minimalist formulations with fewer ingredients — an advantage for clean beauty. A typical SPF fluid with AVC: water + glycerin + UV filters + AVC = stable emulsion without cetearyl alcohol or emulsifiers.

✧

Stability with electrolytes and actives

Carbomer (polyacrylic acid) is neutralized by electrolytes (sea salt, metal ions, some AHAs) — viscosity sharply decreases. AVC is stable over a wide range: electrolytes, AHA/BHA, niacinamide, vitamin C, peptides — do not affect the viscosity of the formulation. This is critical for multi-active formulations: AVC allows combining several actives without issues with texture stability.

Suitable for

Oily and combination skinLight gel texturesMulti-active formulations

Main Actions

✓ Polymer thickener for aqueous phase✓ Self-emulsifying agent✓ Texture stabilizer

AVC vs Carbomer — choice of thickener

Carbomer (Carbopol): cheaper, requires neutralization (TEA or NaOH), sensitive to electrolytes, can be sticky. AVC: more expensive, does not require neutralization, electrolyte-resistant, dry gel feel. For mass market: Carbomer. For premium and K-beauty: AVC or their combination. If you see 'Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer' in the composition — it's a signal of a premium formulation.

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