Antioxidant

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

The most stable ester of vitamin C — 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid combines the stability of derivatives with direct conversion to ascorbic acid right in the cell. It improves tone, stimulates collagen, and protects against oxidation without irritation.

vitamin Cbrighteningstablecollagen

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAC) — a synthetic ester of ascorbic acid: the hydroxyl group at position 3 is protected by an ethyl group. Unlike ascorbyl phosphates (SAP, MAP), which require extracellular enzymes, EAC penetrates cells and is enzymatically hydrolyzed inside — releasing pure L-ascorbic acid right where it is needed. Stable at pH 4–6 and under UV exposure. Soluble in both water and fats (amphiphilic).

A more stable and less irritating alternative to pure ascorbic acid. Popular in K-beauty and Japanese cosmetics. Effective at concentrations of 2–5%.

Key Benefits

✦

Direct conversion to ascorbic acid inside cells

EAC is enzymatically hydrolyzed to L-ascorbic acid inside keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Result: cells receive full vitamin C without oxidation on the way. More effective than some derivatives that are hydrolyzed outside the cell (where products may oxidize before penetration).

◈

Brightening tone and inhibiting melanogenesis

Reduced ascorbic acid inhibits tyrosinase and decreases melanin synthesis. It also reduces already synthesized melanin to a colorless precursor. Clinical studies: at 2% EAC — significant brightening of pigmentation spots in 8 weeks without side effects. The effect is comparable to 20% ascorbic acid.

✧

Stimulation of collagen synthesis and antioxidant protection

Ascorbic acid is a cofactor for prolyl and lysyl hydroxylases, critical for collagen synthesis. EAC provides a stable intracellular level of ascorbate. Antioxidant protection against UV-induced ROS — reducing photoaging with daily use.

Suitable for

for all skin typesfor sensitive skinfor dull skinfor mature skin

Main Actions

✓ brightening tone✓ collagen stimulation✓ antioxidant protection

EAC vs pure ascorbic acid

L-ascorbic acid (LAA) — the most effective but unstable and irritating. EAC — stable, less irritating, converts to LAA in cells. Compromise: fewer side effects with comparable efficacy. An ideal choice if pure L-ascorbic acid causes redness or quickly yellows in the formula.

CategoryAntioxidants

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